Under the Armour

It consists of an inner and outer layer of thick calico (a light canvas can be used instead), with two layers of blanket for padding on the body and one layer on the arms. A large gusset is inserted under the arms to allow plenty of movement. It is buckled up the front (some use laces or points instead). A thick pad has been added to the shoulders where the breastplate sits.

Mail gussets and a collar have been attached to fill in gaps in the armour. To aid ventilation various holes have been made under the armpits and down the side. A separate collar can  be worn instead of having it attached to the doublet.

There are various sets of points on leather tabs for attaching the armour:

Top of shoulders - Pauldrons

Top of Arms - Arm harness

Around waist (4) - Mail skirt

There are also four set holes for points round the waist to attach the arming hose.

This was made by Eve (see her advert on the market page).

These are a pair of joined hose used under armour. They are made from a thick/strong moleskin type fabric. There is extra padding on the knees to pad the leg armour. They have cod piece, joined at the bottom, and laced with points at the waist.

There are four sets of points round the waist to attach to the arming Jacket.

There are two sets of points on each leg for attaching the leg armour. This is an alternative to using a belt and lacing or buckling the legs to the belt. This is often seen in illustrations and I have found these quite effective as it saves putting more weight, and another belt, on the waist. The leg armour used with these has fully encased greaves that grip the top of the boot quite well, whether this method would work with loser legs or those with front greaves only I don't know as there would then be more weight taken by the points.

This was made by Eve (see her advert on the market page).

These are a set of boots made for use when fighting in armour, they are a bit of a cheat, but they are designed to be worn under sabattons so the modern boot bit is hidden. This is cheaper than getting your nice authentic medieval boots damaged during combat, so they can be saved for civilian kit, or wearing without sabattons.

They are constructed from a high desert boot, the sole is removed and replaced with a leather sole, this has leather strips for grip on the front, and a small heel with studs (glued and nailed on). A high leather section has been added to cover (hide) the top of the boot and pad the lower leg armour. They are then laced up the front. These are very effective and provide plenty of grip in combat, and once given several layers of wax and polish are fairly waterproof as well.

The leather sole is made to exactly the same shape as the original sole (which can be used as a template), and can then be sewn on using the same holes in the upper.

This is a mail skirt to protect the groin area between the breast plate and legs. It belts to the waist, and then is laced to the arming jacket using four sets of points that attach to the belt. The combination of belt and points prevents it slipping and means the belt doesn't have to be to tight. It is buckled up the back.

Some people use a belt and shoulder harness arrangement, which is equally effective, but does transfer yet more weight directly to the shoulders.

This skirt is made from 8mm links, using 1.6mm dia iron fencing wire. Unusually it is constructed using 6 into 1 (double mail) rather than 4 into 1 construction. This makes it twice as dense (and hence stronger) than normal mail, but is of course heavier. Various other link sizes and wire gauges can also be used.

This is a mail standard or collar to protect the neck. 

It is designed to be worn close to the neck, either on its own or under a beviour and is buckled up at the back.

This collar  is made from 7mm steel links, using 1.6mm dia wire, it is sewn to a leather packing which keeps it upright, and provides padding and comfort.

Some stats on this particular collar:

• Fits a 15-16" neck .
• 17 rows of 62 links each (not including the triangular pieces in the  dagged edging).
• There are two expansions in the last 5 rows between each of the triangular bits.
•  Took about 10 hours work to make. starting with pre-made links that had to be opened or closed during construction.
• Weighs approx 1.4lbs (660grams).